As I child of the '90s, I spent a solid part of my youth sporting a mood ring. There were the inferior 25-cent types that came out of dispensers at the grocery store. I collected those by the dozens. Then, there were the fancier ones in cool shapes that could be bought at funky bead shops or Claire’s. Those were the real prize. But regardless of their quality or provenance, mine always remained a cold sapphire hue. According to all the charts, blue meant “happy, calm, or peaceful.” Blue meant b oring. I longed for a fiery orange or at least a little green. Of course, it was only later that I learned that the colors were dependent on body temperature and, to absolutely nobody’s great shock except my own, the top of your finger doesn’t make major temperature swings throughout the day. After that, it didn’t take long for me to give up my mood rings and move on to other jewelry fads. (Tattoo chokers anyone?)
It should come as no surprise that the moment I heard about Dior’s Dior Addict Lip Glow Color Reviver Balm my nostalgia got the best of me, and I went out and bought some. A little more grown up than a mood ring, Lip Glow supposedly reacts to the “unique chemistry” of the wearer’s lips to create the perfect custom hue. It won't change if you get hot-tempered, but maybe that's a good thing. Then there's Smashbox’s O-Gloss Intuitive Lip Gloss With Goji Berry-C Complex and Sephora Collection Color Reveal Lip Balm, making similar claims about a custom color created by the lipstick’s reaction to the individual body’s pH levels. It was quickly turning into a “gotta catch 'em all' scenario.
The idea of color-changing lip color isn’t new by any stretch. Old-school brand Tangee has a similar product that dates back to the 1920s, and Avon has some from the '70s (when the color-changing lipsticks really took off). Then there’s a hard-to-find Hare Magic Moroccan Color Changing Lipstick that some people swear by and order in bulk via eBay.
Perhaps the most obvious statement to make about these is that results may vary. On the high end (Dior, Sephora) they mainly come in an innocuous shade of light pink that deepens on contact.(Physicians Formula pH Matchmaker pH Powered Lip Gloss and NYX Mood Lip Gloss are the drugstore dupes.) Then there's MoodMatcher which comes in a seriously freaky shades of lime green and acid yellow. Most exotic are the Hare Magic Moroccan ones. I tried the most ubiquitous one in a bright green shade first and was shocked when it turned a vibrant shade of berry pink upon contact with my lips—hello, cognitive dissonance. I was even more surprised when I tried to wipe it off and found the color stubbornly attached to my mouth. Points for long-lasting wear, at the very least. When I eventually got the color off (almost 24 hours and a few lip scrubs later), I tried out the Dior, which slid on in an almost-imperceptible, clear-rose shade but quickly turned a brighter shade of pink. It took a few minutes, but the end result was almost exactly the same as the drugstore stuff.
In the end, all the lip colors turned a fairly uniform shade of berry. Of course those that were already dyed a deep shade of pink or red went on more cherry-hued than the clearer (or yellower) ones, but I have to admit that the final results were all basically the same. This was starting to feel like mood ring déjà vu.
Turns out, it’s all due to an ingredient called Red 27. A dye the FDA lists as safe for use in drugs and cosmetics (but not those that will be used close to the eyes…), its specific formulation allows it to be colorless when dissolved in a waterless base (i.e. a waxy lipstick). Once exposed to moisture, it turns a bright pinkish-red. So, yes, it is technically reacting to your individual skin in that your skin has a higher pH than the lipstick tube and also has water in it, but other than that, things aren’t much more personalized. The only real difference lays in your skin tone. It will obviously look different on someone with dark skin than it does on someone with a pale complexion. That’s not chemistry; that’s just nature.
Because I really wanted to believe in the magic of the lipstick, I even swiped a few sticks across a dry paper towel. Then, I dripped a bit of water onto them. Sure enough, they turned the same bright pink that I had seen on my lips. Bummer. But, while their enchantment may have faded for me, I will say this for the latest addition to my makeup bag: take a lime green lipstick out in any bathroom, and you are guaranteed to make some fast friends.
—Victoria Lewis
Photographed by Tom Newton.
Wondering how to wear lip gloss? You’ve come to the right place. Whether you’re looking to dip into the glassy lip trend or are just looking to add a little shine to your lips, our easy guide will take you through everything you need to know about how to use lip gloss.
Forget the sticky, tacky, low weartime lip glosses of old. The new generation of lip glosses wear like a balm and are loaded with nourishing lip conditioners in rich, high-pigment tints ranging from sheer to opaque. To help you practice the perfect lip prep and find your perfect lip gloss shade, our Global Artistry Lead Janeena Rumsey has all the tips you’ll need to become a lip gloss pro.
How To Choose a Lip Gloss Shade
If you’re on the fence about what lip gloss color you should wear, there are a few color-matching tips that will help your decision making. “Choosing a lip color is fairly universal across lipsticks, lip liners, and lip glosses, so you can always take what you know suits you in a lipstick and find a similar shade of lip gloss,” explains Janeena.
Think about Undertones
It can be helpful to think about your lip gloss based on your skin tone. Cool, neutral, or warm, working with your skin’s undertone can help you find a shade that complements your complexion the most. “Warm undertones tend to pair well with peachy or golden hues, while rosy or berry shades complement cool undertones. Neutral shades work well on every undertone, and it’s more of a personal choice in finding a neutral lip gloss hue that gives you just the right amount of color-payoff you’re looking for.”
Consider Your Wear
Another factor in deciding what lip gloss shade to go for is what you’re going to be wearing it for. Is it for everyday wear? You may want something more neutral and understated. Is it for evening events? Try a deeper hue or a shimmery shade. If it’s for work you may want something that’s a touch bolder than a neutral while still staying office-appropriate.
“The great thing about lip gloss is you can always mix-and-match to find your perfect look,” adds Janeena. “You can mix two lip glosses together, layered on the lips. You can line lips with your favorite lip pencil, then add gloss to deepen the hue. You can even layer lip gloss over your favorite lipstick or lip crayon for a glossed effect. They are just so versatile, you really can’t go wrong.”
How to Apply Lip Gloss
“With any lip color application, the most important part of the process is the lip prep. Ensuring your lips are smooth and conditioned will avoid your gloss clinging onto dry bits and accentuating them,” explains Janeena.
Prep Your Lips: Exfoliate your lips using a little face scrub—Pumpkin Enzyme Scrub is great for this. “Add some Barrier Balm on lips and you’re good to go,” shares Janeena.
Set Your Base: “Because of its texture, lip gloss can have lower staying power than other lip products if you don’t have the right base in place. A pro makeup artist tip is to line the lips first—in your lip liner of choice to prevent feathering and to add multi-dimensional color, then add a little setting powder to lightly dust onto lips. This provides the perfect base for your lip gloss to grip to and stay in place.”
Apply Lip Gloss: “Depending on the look you’re going for, how you apply lip gloss can vary,” explains Janeena. “Less is definitely more with lip gloss, so it’s good to start off minimal and build it up.”
How to Apply Lip Gloss Evenly: Add a small amount to the center of the bottom lip, and then press lips together to evenly distribute the color. This adds that shine you want, without overloading lips with the gloss.
“If you want to amp up the lip gloss coverage, try more of a wider swipe of lip gloss along the bottom lip and then press lips together.”
Blot the Excess: Grab a makeup wipe or tissue and gently blot lips to remove any excess gloss. “Don’t wipe at this point though as that will compromise the coverage.”
Reapply as needed throughout the day to top off your look as needed, following the same technique.
How to Take Off Lip Gloss
Lip gloss is much easier to remove than lipstick and won’t leave a lot of color residue behind. “I love to remove my lip gloss using our Gentle Makeup Remover Wipes,” shares Janeena. “These hydrating wipes are infused with micellar water and cucumber extract so they're super soothing and gentle on the skin. They make makeup removal so easy.”
Follow your makeup removal with a cleanser to ensure you’re removing all traces of debris from the day too.
Once you’ve cleansed, perform your usual skincare routine, and don’t forget to add extra nourishment to the lips. “Barrier Balm is a must for adding back that much needed moisture to your lips,” adds Janeena.
Now you know how to wear lip gloss, the sky’s the limit on color combinations, glassy lip effects, mixing-and-matching with your favorite lip liners and lipsticks too. Just find what makes you feel good and wear your lip gloss with confidence. And, if you’re looking for more lip color ideas, check out our lip color guide, plus our how to wear neutral lips guide to really crush your lip color game.